|Clams with wild garlic and crème fraiche|
In between dishes are sips from a tumbler of a sweet bellini, softly fizzy and pink with rose and rhubarb.
The second best dish consists of slivers of cauliflower with the edges browned and wizened, a sculptural shard next to plump scallops, and hidden under the folded fat that is lardo. All on a cream-coloured purée of truffled cauliflower, which is utterly moreish.
Actually, joint second is a dish of Marinda tomatoes from Sicily which are naked bar a modest lick of oil. In short, I recommend that you visit Polpetto in Berwick Street, because it seems at home in its new home and you’ll soon feel at home there too. Especially when you've a bellini or two in hand.
|The rude bottom of a Marina tomato|
Read my first thoughts on the original Polpetto.